PANAMA -- I suspect that environmental ecology and ecotourism were not foremost on the minds of the Panama Canal builders.
Nor did they probably realize the full impact of turning mountain tops
into islands. History proves, however, that despite the efforts of the
indigenous inhabitants (malaria-carrying mosquitoes included), the canal
got built and progress was complete. Approaching a century later, on
one of those islands in the middle of the Lake Gatun section of the
Canal, exists (since 1981) a facility and a dream dedicated to the
survival of one of the endangered species of monkey, the Panamanian
tamarin.
This
"halfway house" for poached, caged and habituated primates (rescued and
returned from their collared concrete existence in the cities, and then
reintroduced to their natural habitat), is the ongoing work of founder
Dr. Dennis Rasmussen (Florida State University), and organizations such
as Earthquest (Canada) for the Environment, with whom I am consulting.
Volunteers are accepted to live on the Isla Tigre (Tiger Island) Primate
Sanctuary for 2-4 week expeditions, and participate in scientific and
environmental observation furthering the work of the research project.
The
two week expedition I observed last February brought together 12
volunteer team members from across North America. Arrival was
cross-country from Panama City by van and then by small launch to the
cluster of small islands secluding the primate sanctuary. We were met by
Rumuldo and Francisco, local native campesinos (farmers) who are the
rangers for the island. Their jobs include feeding both human and
tamarin populations, island security (poachers occasionally are met),
maintenance and jack-of-all-trades.
We
were guided up the "Buena Vista" path to the main "bohio" lodge (a
palm-thatch roofed, two story structure) for orientation. We set up our
tents on the second floor of the dormitory bohio, understanding and
later discovering that the ground floor after dark becomes an action
packed activity area for all things crawling, including leaf cutter
ants, snakes, wolf spiders, iguanas, night monkeys, scorpions, and
tarantulas. The trench latrine was up the hill and, outfitted with paper
and shovel, became one of the most opportune places on the island to
observe the many colorful and vocal species of birds indigenous to the
area. Amazon parrots, toucans, hawks and vultures made any visit up the
hill
an adventure.
With
no electricity or running water on Isla Tigre, life is spartan and
rustic. Our days consisted of lectures, discussions, jungle observations
and some off island touring. Meals, campesino cuisine, were delicious
and "typico." Fresh fish, thanks to Francisco, hit our plates almost
daily, along with coconut rice, fried plantain, beans and veggies.
Papaya and chile peppers grown on the island added both sweetness and
warmth to the meals. We were encouraged to help in the kitchen, and we
did - practicing our Spanish (neither men spoke English) and learning
the magic of the traditional flavors. Night fell around 6 o'clock and we
enjoyed our candlelit dinners discussing the days' observations and
sharing our experiences with each other. Rumuldo and Francisco joined
us and we spoke of families, homelands and food..
Into
the jungle to observe and document was our mandate. Daily treks along
rough, though defined trails, took us in search of tamarin feeding
ecology, behavior and antics. They travel in groups, headed by the
dominant female. Their main predator (besides man) is the hawk which
will fly off with one in a blink of an eye. Finding them at any given
time is a challenge and many hours each day were spent in search of the
elusive bands of these canopy acrobats. Sightings were exhilarating and
most rewarding. All of the data collected was fed into the computer
update and analysis of the island population. It was fun to observe the
group dynamic of both the monkey primates and the human ones.
Conclusion
Each
day of our visit allowed for personal interaction with the Panama
Canal. We bathed in it, washed our clothes in it (biodegradable soap)
and relaxed in its' welcoming clearness. Watching for Cayman was only
necessary early in the morning or at dusk. Midnight stargazing sitting
on the dock did bring sounds of thrashing in the surrounding flora, but
we only could imagine the noisemaker. There is a 6 foot iguana on the
island, but we didn't see it that time. Shooting stars and unobstructed
views of the endless heavens made this traveler consider life's best
possibilities. In sunlight we could see in the distance the huge tankers
and cruise ships pass, oblivious to our situation and project. The
migratory pattern of the birds established a daily time
schedule for observation. For one who believes the ancient native
saying that "a feather in your path is a gift", every day was a
celebration.
Visiting
the native Choice tribe (a long and rough boat trip up the Charges
River), brought history, cultural diversity, and scientific exploration.
We were invited into the home of one of the elders of the tribe to meet
his family, observe carving and basket/necklace making, experience body
tattooing, and hike into the jungle to learn of natural herbal and
medicinal plants growing there. The shaman showed us countless remedies
for everything from headaches to stomach malaise, all available at arms'
reach. We were pleased to return to the island mindful that as we
planted new fruit trees for the monkeys, we were planting them in the
island pharmacy. Nature provides.
And
so the cycle and recycle of life continues on the small island. We were
there for scientific research and observation, but I believe that we
were "gifted the ultimate feather" to any ecotourist - cultural,
educational and adventure moments, no matter where in the world we
travel or why. I found all of these in Panama. In the year 2000,
mandated by momentous treaty, the Panama Canal zone will be given back
to it's original inhabitants, the people of Panama. With the continued
equally momentous commitment of people like Dennis Rasmussen and
organizations such as Earthquest (Canada) for the Environment, Panama
will be given back to its' original inhabitants.
Steve Rinder is an ecotourism consultant, formerly based in London, Canada
